:. Digital Display fix |
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 Mar 25 2009, 05:32 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member  Group: Members Posts: 144 Joined: 13-April 05 From: Summerland, BC, Canada Member No.: 39  |
My digital display went dark on me a couple of weeks ago, after dimming intermittently for a year.
When I went looking for information, I found most of the pictorial links were dead. So I went ahead and tore into it, and decided to photograph it. This is an easy job, but the thought of taking a dash apart scares some people. I hope these photos demistify this process. It's really pretty easy to do. Start with these two 7MM tapered bolts.  Remove face.  Remove 8 torx screws.  Remove clear face.  Remove spacer bezel. 
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Mar 25 2009, 05:37 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 144 Joined: 13-April 05 From: Summerland, BC, Canada Member No.: 39 |
Remove instrument face panel.
 The following part is optional. You can just leave this in and remove the digital part alone, but I've included it anyway. It may be easier to do this on a table. Remove these 4 four 7MM tapered bolts.  Remove PRNOD21 by rotating it to the right. It is connected to a little cable that needs to be gently removed.   
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Mar 25 2009, 05:45 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 144 Joined: 13-April 05 From: Summerland, BC, Canada Member No.: 39 |
Pull at these two places to free cluster from the 2 connectors.
 Here's what the cavity looks like. You can see the two connectors in the lower dash.  Remove these 4 torx screws. Can also be done while cluster is in car.  Here's what it looks like apart.  Closeup of the connector tabs. See the dimples? 
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Mar 25 2009, 05:47 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 144 Joined: 13-April 05 From: Summerland, BC, Canada Member No.: 39 |
You can use alcohol and a Q-tip to clean these points in the following photos.
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Mar 25 2009, 05:54 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 144 Joined: 13-April 05 From: Summerland, BC, Canada Member No.: 39 |
I ended up having to use a soldering iron to build up some of the tabs that were showing wear.
Very carefully,............. touch the soldering iron to these points indicated, pausing only long enough to just liquify them slightly. You don't want to create puddles, or run them into each other. Pretend your a brain surgeon.   This wa the result, a bright, working digital display!  Just re-assemble in the reverse order. Happy repairing! JOHN |
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Mar 25 2009, 09:34 PM
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#6
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 Advanced Member  Group: Contributing Member Posts: 1,505 Joined: 13-April 05 Member No.: 21 |
Wow! I definitely though it would be a disaster to get in there. Thanks for the pics.
I suppose doing the analog swap would be similar? Carlos -------------------- R.I.P. Bro (Eddie Sabroso 8/20/72-9/16/09)
 Current Veh.: 2003 Ford Police Interceptor (White/Gray) Acq. 1/27/2010 Have owned in order: 1993 Silver Civi LO3, 1995 Black 9C1 LT1, 1994 DCM 9C1 L99 and a 1991 Black Saphire Met. 9C1 LO5. (In a previous life - before my third daughter : 1988 Mustang LX, 1993 Mustang LX 5.0, 1992 Mustang LX 5.0 1996 Mustang 3.8, 1998 Mustang GT, 1986 Mustang 3.8. |
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Mar 26 2009, 03:39 AM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 144 Joined: 13-April 05 From: Summerland, BC, Canada Member No.: 39 |
QUOTE (Carlos @ Mar 25 2009, 11:34 PM)  Wow! I definitely though it would be a disaster to get in there. Thanks for the pics. I suppose doing the analog swap would be similar? Carlos I've never swapped one in, so I don't know. |
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Mar 26 2009, 04:14 AM
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#8
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 Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 1,792 Joined: 28-March 06 From: Plainview, New York Member No.: 534 Club Member: LISST, FastLSX |
Doing the analog swap is rather similar, but you don't need to dismantle the cluster.
Also, you can take a fine-tipped pick and LIGHTLY pull out the tabs on the cluster to get a better connection. Worked for me .
--------------------  '95 BBB Civvie: 4.3L L99 V8, 89k. New daily driver. '95 DGGM 9C1 (95-254): 5.7L LT1 V8, 188k. Ex-VPD Unmarked. Blown up transmission (again). Awaiting LY5/??? swap. Past Vehicles: '91 Buick Regal: 3.8L V6, 47k. Sold to my good friend! '95 LDM Wagon: 5.7L LT1 V8, 215k. Stripped and gone. :( |
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Mar 26 2009, 04:31 AM
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#9
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 Advanced Member  Group: 2006 Contributor Posts: 4,585 Joined: 14-April 05 From: Crawfordsville, Indiana Member No.: 62 Club Member: Indipala SS ISSCA Member?: 2036 |
Very good stuff! Thanks for the detailed write-up.
-------------------- Down to one- 95 9C1.
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Mar 26 2009, 05:07 AM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 1,664 Joined: 4-March 08 From: Pittsburgh, PA Member No.: 1,867 Car Make: Chevrolet Car Model: Caprice 9C1, Impala SS Car Year: 1994/1995 Engine Size: LT1 for maximum fun Club Member: Iron City Impala SS Owners |
I added this (as a link to the post) in the FAQ.
I've done this on a few cars and it works well. But every once in a while (like on my '94), I come across a car that needs more work, usually requiring a solder reflow on EVERY component on the display board (ie: if the display is working but the odometer blinks off or reads gibberish). I've tried this myself with limited success. So when this kept happening to my '94, I gave it to my electrical engineer friend who did the same procedure (solder reflow on every component) with great success, it just requires a steady hand, great solder skills, and a few hours of time (and perhaps a beer). Awesome post! Thanks! -------------------- Tom S.
My fleet of B-Bodies: '94 9C1: LT1, 140K miles, bone stock, my beloved first 9C1, sold years ago. '95 9C1: LT1, 230K miles, refurb at 166K miles, sold it, bought it back, now a parts donor '94 9C1: LT1, 152K miles, mostly stock, AIR system delete, home plate delete. Current winter car. '95 9C1: LT1, 163K miles, tons-o-mods, engine, transmission, rear, electrical, too many to list. Summer car. '95 Impala SS: 20K miles, home plate delete, pipe intake, MMC drive shaft and Metco loop, rest is stock. '69 Dodge Charger: 383ci, Mopar B-Body, General Lee replica (GM fanatic by day, Mopar fanatic by night) |
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Mar 26 2009, 04:49 PM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 217 Joined: 28-September 06 From: Southeastern Oklahoma. Member No.: 696 |
good write up.I have done the same to my 95 Caprice and it is about due for it again.good thing is it only takes about 30 mins and has lasted almost a year now.
-------------------- Hell yeah its got an LT1!!!!!
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Mar 26 2009, 06:16 PM
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#12
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 Advanced Member Group: 2006 Contributor Posts: 1,956 Joined: 13-April 05 Member No.: 28 |
Just an FYI, if you loosen the lower dah after removing the trim bezel, the entire cluster can then be removed as a unit instead of dismantling it in the car. That's how I always do it.
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Sep 20 2009, 06:56 AM
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#13
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 1 Joined: 19-September 09 Member No.: 10,753 Car Make: Chevy Car Model: Caprice Car Year: 1996 Engine Size: 4.3 Club Member: FTE |
I just wanted to say thank you for the repair proceedure, My wifes car just lost the digital display, and I was hoping to find something just like this.. Great write up, and thank you up front!!
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Sep 22 2009, 12:56 PM
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#14
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 132 Joined: 20-April 05 From: North Charleston, SC Member No.: 100 Car Make: Chevrolet Car Model: Caprice 9C1 Car Year: 1994 Engine Size: LT1 |
nice post, and added comments. Ill add it to the list, mine is flickering. thanks guys
-------------------- 2005 to 2009 - 1996 9C1-pcm program, side molding delete, air pump delete, tb bypass, airfoil, cold ari intake, impala wheels, window tint, drilled slotted rotors, flowmasters, 160 degree thermostat.
present - 1994 9C1 no rust |
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Apr 8 2010, 06:26 AM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 144 Joined: 13-April 05 From: Summerland, BC, Canada Member No.: 39 |
Just bumping this back to the top, to help the new members.
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 3rd September 2010 - 02:29 PM |